The Modern Victory Garden

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The Great Potato Experiment Begins

Posted on March 23, 2010 at 10:47 PM

I am off from work this week and alternating some days spent at home and in the garden with some days away doing fun things with my family.   Had some commitments this morning to keep but spent the afternoon working in the garden.   The broccoli (Premium Crop) and the swiss chard (Bright Lights) seedlings needed to be transplanted out.   I have been hardening them off for the past several days and they were definitely ready to go into the ground.               

  

  

 

I did a quick cultivation and raking of the soil in the bed area to be planted and then used a stick to mark out a grid of 1-foot spaces in an area 5 feet long by 4 feet wide.             

                     

 

   

The broccoli plants (20 of them) were then transplanted into the bed and copper collars for slug management were placed around the stems.   These were then watered well and given some protection by putting the grow tunnel cover back up over the bed.         

                                            

   

 

The swiss chard seedlings (16 of them) were similarly planted up in an 8-foot section of the largest vertical grow bed.                                           

      

After lunch I got started on the big 2010 potato experiment.   I have been growing potatoes successfully for some time now in raised boxed edge beds using a trenching method.   This trenching method produces a reliable harvest but also wastes valuable growing real estate with the wide spacing between trenches.   The yields I have been getting are good but not superior and I have decided to up my game this year with the potato patch and see if I can significantly increase my harvest amounts per 100 square feet.   I already know my trenching method equals or exceeds the bin, furrow, and heavy mulching methods for production, so I am not going to waste time reverting back to any of those methods.   What I have decided to do instead is give the John Jeavon's method a try.   This entails doing a double dig and planting the potatoes on top of the loosened soil at the bottom of each trench and then covering it with the soil from the next trench to be dug.   The seed potatoes are buried much more deeply right from the beginning (approximately 9 inches or more) but in really loose soil resulting from the double dig.   You do not hill or add more layers, which is appealing in that once planted it is a relatively no fuss method of planting.   The initial planting is more work though since you are double digging the bed as you go.   If the bed has been previously double dug then it really should be fairly easy work.

 

Before I get too much further in describing this I must post a disclaimer – I have never used this method and do not know anyone personally who has ever done this.   I would encourage anyone interested in this to watch how this goes for me first before committing yourself in any fashion to planting this way.   I am willing to gamble a bit and just dive in and do it because the basic methodology makes good sense to me and is in keeping with the other biointensive methods I employ.   However, I don’t want anyone to think that this is a tried and true method for me because it is not.     I am taking a calculated gamble that this will work and feel fairly confident that it will, however there is the niggling worry about the potato shoots having to grow such a long ways before finally breaking through the surface of the soil.    Disclaimer completed, I will get on with describing how this works!  

                               

 

The potatoes are planted with a spacing of 9 inches between them.   The next row over is approximately nine inches from the first and the spuds are offset from the prior row to create a diamond pattern.   A while ago I made a planting board for this purpose - which has spacing marked at 9 inch intervals on one edge, and the same intervals marked on the other edge but offset.                                 

               

  

  

         

 

The bed was prepared last weekend by placing rock minerals (rock phosphate and greensand), organic all purpose fertilizer, and compost on the surface of the entire bed.   To get started with the planting today I needed a garden spade, a garden fork, a garden rake, the planting board, a standing board (to distribute weight and minimize the soil compaction in the bed while double digging), and a wheelbarrow to hold the soil removed from the first trench.                      

                     

 

 

Standing on the board, I use the spade to remove soil across the width of the bed, creating a trench that is approximately as wide as the spade and as deep.      

              

   

  

The soil from this first trench is placed in the wheelbarrow and set aside to be used at the very last step to fill in the final trench.                   

           

  

     

The garden fork is then used to loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench by digging into the soil and lifting.   Since this bed has been double dug before the soil is not that compacted and the digging was relatively easy to do.   It’s been four years now since I originally double dug this bed and I am encouraged by the good tilth and quality of the soil in the bed.              

        

   

  

The planting board is laid next to the trench and seed potatoes are then placed in the bottom of the trench to line up with the marks on the board.    

 

 

The planting board is then reversed so it is ready for the next trench.   Standing on the board again, the next trench is then dug with the soil being placed into the first trench.                                               

                

   

 

The bottom of that trench is again loosened using the fork and then the planting board is placed next to it and the seed potatoes are again put into the bottom of the trench.     Because the board was reversed, the potatoes are placed in an alternating pattern to the first trench’s potato placement.       

 

    

 

The process is then repeated for the third and each subsequent trench until you are completed.                           

                                         

   

  

I have a 32 foot bed that I am planting up in potatoes and to avoid undue stress on my back, I am pacing myself with the planting process.   Today I completed an 8-foot section of the bed or 1/4th of it.   I used a rake to smooth and level the soil over the bed sections I had completed.              

       

  

 

A side benefit of this method is that the planting bed is given a rejuvenating double dig in the process.  This picture does not do full justice to the quality and texture of the soil in this bed - it is really outstanding.                       

 

I will be working on this periodically over the remainder of the week to get this planting up process completed.   Then, as the growing season progresses, I will provide updates on how this is going.   Hopefully this will work as described - but if not, then I will have to resort to purchasing potatoes for one year.   Would not be happy about that but it would not be the end of the world either.   Wish me luck!

Categories: Potatoes, Transplanting, Rock Minerals and Dusts

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23 Comments

Reply Daphne
09:04 AM on March 24, 2010 
Good luck! I hope it all goes as planned. I would love to try that method too. The cage method didn't work well at all for me. I just wonder if I'll have space for potatoes in the new house. I don't have much space for them here, but we will see.
Reply Richard
09:21 AM on March 24, 2010 
Good luck with this as well! It seems like you have it well thought out. Okay, so I have a 4x8ft bed that I am planning to plant potatoes in. It is not double dug and have around 8 inches or so of soil. Underneath the raised bed is a very compacted sand/clay (mainly clay) mixture. My house is a new construction in a new subdivision. Do you think I could plant potatoes in my bed and it be productive or should I use a different method? I was reading on a blog that people have built potato boxes and just added dirt as the potato plant grew. I could provide a link if you would like so you can see what I'm talking about.
Reply hsheather
09:28 AM on March 24, 2010 
I've read of this method and it seems like it should work. Last year I let some volunteer potatoes come up while I completely ignored them. I got a fantastic crop. I may have to do something similar this year, if my back will let me.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
11:46 AM on March 24, 2010 
Daphne - The bin or cage methods work for me but only produced as much from the seed potatoes as I typically get when planting them in the ground. I think they are useful methods if you have space problems but otherwise I think it is possible to do better growing in the ground.

Richard - I think you have a couple of options available. If it were me and I did not intend to double dig then I would work the soil in the 4x8 bed by adding a broadcasting of some bonemeal over the surface (just dust it) and some organic all purpose fertilizer and a layer of good finished compost. I would then mix and cultivate all that into the top six inches or so of soil and rake it smooth. I would then plant the potato pieces in the same pattern I just did in the post above (9 inch spacing with offset alternate 9 inches in the row next to them (you should get 10 rows if spaced 9 inches apart in an 8 foot long bed and each row should have 5 seed pieces). I would bury the seed piece so that it was at least 4 inches below soil level - preferably 6 inches. When the potato foilage surfaces and get's about two inches above the soil line, I would begin layering on a mulch of clean straw. As the potato plants grow taller and pop up out of the straw by about 2 inchs add some more straw. This should give you a straw mulch of about 3 to 4 inches. You can then stop and just watch them grow. The only problem I have with this method is that if you live where slugs are prevalent (such as I do) they take up residence in the straw which is not good. The other option is to do a potato bin and just keep adding soil as you go. The late season varieties do better with that method than early or mid season varieties. Here's a link to Sinfonian's web page on "build as you grow potato bins" . You do not have to build a structure like this - I have used large containers quite successfully and then just tipped them over when it came time to harvest - either works.

http://ft2garden.powweb.com/sinfonian/?page_id=12

hsheather - I have read about it too but there s an amazing lack of information on the web about it which is kind of surprising. It also does not get a huge amount of written space in John Jeavon's books either which is interesting because potatoes are a key caloric crop in his concept of self sustaining gardens using small amounts of land. I did find one web page/blog post showing this being done but otherwise came up pretty empty handed. It's a gamble but I am betting it works well.
Reply Daphne
11:58 AM on March 24, 2010 
That is the same thing that happened to me with the cage. It produced just the same as trenching in ground and it was a lot of work compared to traditional trenching.
Reply Annie's Granny
07:55 PM on March 24, 2010 
I have no doubt at all that it will work great for you. I know the optimum depth after hilling is 9" (deeper decreases yields). I also know of excellent results from not hilling at all (Ruth Stout) I have good results from burying kitchen scraps at that depth, the potato peelings have no problem at all sending their shoots to the surface. I basically planted mine the same, with 9" spacing in all directions, I just left mine in furrows that will be filled in with compost as the potatoes grow. That was easy for me, as the entire bed had settled and needed extra compost to raise the level of soil.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
09:46 PM on March 24, 2010 
Annies Granny - Well that is certainly encouraging to hear! I finished digging and planting the rest of the bed today - so the potato patch is all in now. it will be interesting to watch how it does and more importantly - how much it produces.
Reply Larry
10:45 PM on March 24, 2010 
Thanks for posting that disclaimer. Now no one can sue you for "serious emotional distress due to inadequate potato production" :)
I am doing the mounding method my first time trying anything different.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
12:12 AM on March 25, 2010 
Larry - LOL! :D
Reply Sustainable Eats
02:40 AM on March 25, 2010 
Last year I also planted them in a whiskey barrel and recycled coffee burlap bags from the roaster. I'll be repeating that because it let me use extra purchased top soil which was nice and light and hill at my convenience (or not). Then when it was harvest time I dumped the whole thing out in a wheel barrel and picked through. I'm doing that again since it was so easy and I could place it anywhere. I'm really curious to hear if this is work the effort though!
Reply Thomas
08:51 AM on March 25, 2010 
Your trenching method is really interesting. I will definitely have to consider it. I was planning on growing most of my potatoes in pots but am reluctant to go out and buy all of that potting soil. I need to be better at budgeting my gardening expenses.

Hopefully this method works well for you. I'm sure all of us are curious as to how it will turn out.
Reply Mike
09:02 AM on March 25, 2010 
Very interesting. I might try something similar this summer. Our problem is with water not penetrating the hilled mounds enough to reach the plants roots. We are forced to use overhead irrigation for the potatoes and it is not as effective on the sloped mounds. What I really need to do is install a soaker hose along my potato patch but that is easier said than done because of the location. Good luck with your new strategy.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
09:14 AM on March 25, 2010 
Sustainable Eats - Container growing definitely works, is convenient and easy on the gardener, and the harvest is a simple process too. However, I generally do not use that method unless I am really constrained on availability of valuable growing bed space because the cost of soil can really add up and the production per lb of seed potato input is lower than what I can do in the ground. It's a good alternative but not my first choice.

Thomas - The trenching method reliably produces a good sized crop of potatoes and can be relied upon for that. I do expect that I will be greatly increasing my production with this change though - because the trenching method has large areas of growing bed that is unused (in between the trenches) - whereas this planting method uses the entire bed from end to end - 9 inch spacing in all directions. I used to commit about 3 hours to doing the trenching method dig. and about an hour spread out over many subsequent weeks to back fill the trenches. I put in a total of 6 hours over two days time to do the full double dig and planting of this 32 foot by 4 foot bed and I am done (no back filling or further digging needed until harvest). If I get the increased production I think is likely - then this will provide a great deall of improvement withonly modest amounts of additional energy expenditure up front. Not to mention, it provides a good rejuvenation of the growing bed at the same time. I rotate the bed that the potatoes go in - so if I did this each year, I would continually be improving the garden beds in the process too.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
09:17 AM on March 25, 2010 
Mike - I have that problem too with mounded soil. Getting it properly irrigated is problematic. I think this bed will be easier to keep hydrated - since the surface area is flat and the soil is so loose clear down to a 24 inch level.
Reply Dan
09:53 PM on March 25, 2010 
Sounds like an interesting idea! I will have to read the link. Not sure how I will plant my spuds this year but they are definitely going in a bed not a bin.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
11:59 AM on March 26, 2010 
Dan - You might try the method I described in my comment response to Richard (above) since you have limited growing bed space it would seem like a good alternative for you if you are not using bins this year.
Reply leslie
05:12 PM on March 26, 2010 
I am a newbie -- and not ready for potatoes yet. But I saw your copper collars and am really curious to know more about them. I also live in the Pacific NW -- home to too many slugs to count. I have been looking for some sort of copper trim for my raised beds as a deterrent -- and haven't had any luck. Maybe collars would be a solution. Where did you find them? Have you had good luck with them? Thanks for helping me out.
Reply kitsapfreedomgardener
10:04 PM on March 26, 2010 
leslie - You can purchase the copper collars online and you may find them at your local nursery. I have a quite a stash of them so have not bought them lately, but here is a link to one source

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/snail-slug-copper-tape.html

If you click on the blog category "pests" from the side bar menu on this blog page - one of the blog posts linked to that category is all about slug management and I discuss the copper collars in more detail there. Another option is copper tape which is not as long lived as the collars and laying down lengths of copper plumbers pipe to create a "corral" around vulerable plants. Copper really does work quite well but the best slug management tool is hand picking them regularly and avoiding creating areas where slugs can hide from developing.
Reply stefaneener
12:44 PM on March 30, 2010 
It must be the year for potato experiments. Last year I tried bins; this year it's trenches. We'll have to keep our eyes open and compare. Your soil is so great, though, it's hardly the same thing.
Reply Nina
07:13 AM on April 15, 2010 
Have you heard of the Ruth Stout method? She just throws potatoes on the ground that have already partly sprouted and covers them lightly with hay. It supposedly works.